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Paris Men'S Wear Week 2012/2013 Autumn And Winter Series: Luxury World

2012/2/21 15:21:00 486

Who has power? Who is losing it? This is an international problem. This season, Stefano Pilati's latest Yves Saint Laurent series focuses on power fashion Friendly maid: sex and money. Pilates tried to relate his theme to the latest fashion The tradition of the house is intertwined. Back in the days of sexual secret rule, according to Pilates, it is more powerful than money. There is no more underground rule now, but there are still photos taken by Saint Laurent in the 1970s as evidence, and this appearance and feeling intrude into his black coat. So this is the inspiration of Pilates series.
　　

Yves Saint Laurent Sex and Money

The environment he created is the place where sex and money play together - the art world. A huge blackboard background is actually the text of an interview with Andy Warhol full of dirt. The sound of the electrostatic scanner in the background music is combined with the sound clip of the artist and collector Sam Wagstaff discussing collection techniques. The style of Robert Maplethorpe, a photographer and friend of Vagus Taff, gradually hinted into the show.

　　

Luxury World

Half of the series have clear military influence, such as sailor jacket and cavalry coat, some with gorgeous leather and fur Decorative, and double breasted jacket. In this case, these styles became the common language of clothing for rich men, but Pilates used black leather to distort his authority and power of sexual worship. He began quietly to use leather edging, lapels, collars, and then quilted shoulders, T-shirts, and waistcoats. Now money may have the most say, but Pilates wants to drown it with sex. Robert Maypresop's self portrait on a motorcyclist's jacket set the tone for this. The key details are buckles and slings. Shoes are encased in metal. If you take a picture of a dress with a photo of Maplesop on it, you will see how inappropriate Pilates is. Sweaters with the theme of razor blade (another Maplesop element) put forward a sinister subtext: uncover the appearance that hides the strong contour line with threats. {page_break}

　　

Hermes similar password

This series can be seen as a dull reflection of the criticism of animal protectors, because this show shows black alligator skin motorcycle jacket or black leather suit, but Veronique Nichanian insists on launching Hermes The brand is a strong, subtle and sexy menswear series, but its creation does not match the level expected by her latest products. Nishanian has successfully deconstructed the dress code of the middle class, positioning itself as a kind of conspicuous and slowly entering luxury dress. The shoes are not matched with socks, or the formal clothes without tie. However, Nishanian stepped back a bit, which made people feel picky.

　　

Luxury World

Quite simply, the darkness and sobriety of the costume did not bring the show additional selling points. One of the themes of the series is "similarity". Things may not always be what they look like. Perhaps, this means that suits with mohair sheen are actually cut from wool and cotton blended fabrics. In this case, appearance similarity is not a dynamic concept that can promote the whole situation. It is better displayed in an exhibition hall.

But in the end, this reservation is totally meaningless. After all, Hermes' series has always been one of the series that maintain a close relationship between clothing and consumers, especially when these clothes enter the store in the next season. {page_break}

　　

Berluti's Dream of Revival

The creative director Alessandro Sartori said, "This is my dream." Because the guests he invited walked into the wardrobe set up at the entrance of the art school. You come out from the other side and enter the cavernous interior of the building, which has been re installed as the world of Berluti, composed of five slightly surreal stage shapes, making the first ready to wear series launched by this 117 year old shoe brand stand out. The "audience" on the small golden chair is sitting in a precarious position. It is a shoe or something that belonged to Berluti customers in the past and now, from Dean Martin and Eve Saint Laurent to Roman Polanski and Gerald Depadieu. Andy Warhol's shoes are proudly in the front row. "They are looking at me and judging me," Satori said

　　

Luxury World

Walk through the wardrobe into a world of conceited fantasy. There is no lion or witch in Satori's dream, but he must try to bring magic. "I want humanity, I want hands," he said as if touching a cashmere suit. In fact, every garment in the series, from suits to sportswear, is handmade in Turin, Italy. Satori called it sculpture fashion. The concept of sculpture is absolutely suitable for the silhouette of clothing, which is long and thin, with a structural Naples shoulder shape. The fashion elements are obvious in details, ranging from luxurious fabrics to leather buttonholes.

Berluti is famous for making shoes by hand. Satori renewed the tradition, not only shoes, but also handmade motorcycle rider jackets and a full range of leather accessories. The company's revival was under the supervision of Antoine Arnold.

LVMH Group has taken a foothold in the market for luxury men's wear series, and has included Berluti in the group's planning. It takes time to realize the potential and vision of this brand, so the Group has hired ZZegna's Satori to realize it. Satori said enthusiastically, "It's not difficult. It's love." People have to wait and see how the future will be.