Home >

Introduction To Special Printing Knowledge Of Knitted Cashmere Garments

2013/9/7 20:09:00 45

Knitted Garments Cashmere Garments Printing Technology Garment Printing

< a href= > //www.sjfzxm.com/news/index_c.asp > > sweater printing > /a > there are usually two kinds of plate screen printing and cylinder screen printing. The former is suitable for printing of garment pieces, while the latter is suitable for continuous printing.

In addition to a small part of cylinder sweater printing, most sweater products are printed with flat screen printing, and printed in manual screen printing in flat screen printing.

The screen printing of sweaters can be divided into four types: steaming printing, pigment printing, low temperature printing and relief printing. Today, this article focuses on Reliefprinting.

people will see a cameo cashmere sweater in the market. It has the characteristics of relief relief, pattern, texture, haziness, soft color and strong contrast in the light. It gives people a striking stereoscopic pattern in the visual sense. The handle feels smooth and has a unique external effect. It is loved by consumers.

Many people do not know why such a concave and convex pattern of sweaters is known. The relief effect is neither woven nor printed, or even "foaming printing".

How can it appear concave and convex patterns on the sweater? It also starts with the physical and chemical properties of cashmere.

1 > /strong > < a > href= > //www.sjfzxm.com/news/ > strong > cashmere > /strong > /a > strong > the organization structure > > > > > > > > > strong > > > > > > > > > strong >

there are wool, goat hair and wool free in wool fiber.

Cashmere is a kind of fuzz made from goat hair. It is characterized by light, fine, soft, soft, slippery and glutinous. It is called "soft gold".

Cashmere is a long solid solid cylinder. It is curly. The structure of the fiber is divided into three layers: scale, cortex and medulla.

shrinkage is the biggest feature of cashmere sweater, because the existence of milling also results in fabric size instability (washed sweater tends to become smaller).

Relief printing is made from the cashmere principle of cashmere fiber surface scales.

two, the mechanism of milling is less than /strong > /p >

animal hair fiber, under the action of hygrothermal and chemical reagents, is repeatedly compressed by mechanical external forces, and the fiber assemblies gradually shrink and intertwined and intertwined and intertwined.

Wool fabric can be knitted, the reason is very complicated.

The mechanism of wool fiber producing shrinkage has generally the following reasons.

a microscope has been observed that there are many scales covering the surface of cashmere fibers. The free ends of the scales are directed toward the tip direction of cashmere fibers. When there is a fulling agent, cashmere fibers will expand and expand with the moisture. When cashmere is applied to certain external forces, cashmere will start to move, so that wool fibers have directional friction.

That is, the friction coefficient of the scale flake is small and the reverse friction coefficient is large, and there is a coefficient difference between the reverse and the downstream (that is, the friction coefficient of the reverse scale direction is always greater than the friction coefficient in the direction of the straight scale) when the fiber is friction.

Coupled with the presence of external wet heat and chemical additives, when the woolen sweater is rubbed repeatedly by mechanical external forces, it produces a trend of unidirectional movement toward the root end of the fiber, plus wool has excellent extensibility, resilience, and space curling, which makes the wool fibers easier to move, so that the wool fibers are intertwined, resulting in interwoven felting. The wool ends are gradually exposed on the surface of the fabric, making the fabric look good, the handle is rich, the texture is soft, and has good thermal insulation effect.

Practice has proved that fine cashmere has more scales than coarse wool, so the fining of fine cashmere is better than that of coarse wool.

Wool has more scales than rabbit hair, so wool has better finish than rabbit hair.

In addition to "scale theory" and "elastic theory", people also explain the mechanism of cashmere's shrinkage from different angles according to some characteristics and experimental phenomena of wool, such as the theory of "Dehua", "curl theory" and "strain one relaxation theory".

However, the main viewpoint that can be widely accepted is that the shrinkage of wool is determined by directional friction effect and high tensile recovery.

The former is called braking factor, and the latter is called dynamic factor.

span lang= "EN-US" lang= "Microsoft";

three, < a > href= > //www.sjfzxm.com > strong > relief printing > /strong > /a > strong > pattern design < > > > > > > > strong >

relief printing, also known as relief finishing, is a special finishing process of cashmere knitting "a target=" _blank "href=" //www.sjfzxm.com/ "> dress /a > special process, which is different from any other knitting industry.

Therefore, relief printing is an organic combination of the printing process and the finishing process of cashmere fabrics.

The design of the flower pattern is different from that of the ordinary printing design. The general printing factory pattern design and printing process design are completed in two production stages, or even two separate departments.

Because embossing printing contains printing process and two parts of velvet technology, it can produce fine products by combining organically.

That is to say, the designers and designers should communicate with each other closely and cooperate closely with each other, so that a good pattern can be produced through reasonable and advanced technology, so that the relief printing task of the sweater can be finished better.

Because of the difference in clothing before and after milling, there are many changes in size, density, appearance and handle.

The clothing has become full of texture, hazy texture, soft color and smooth handle, giving full play to the physical characteristics of cashmere fiber and forming a unique appearance effect.

The original texture of any tissue will be chaotic after the process.

Therefore, the tissue patterns commonly used on cashmere sweaters are not necessarily suitable for the technological requirements of shrinking cashmere sweaters. Therefore, in the design of samples, we must take into account the appearance changes that will be produced on the garments after cashmere, which is an important part of cashmere dress design.

Relief printing is mainly applied to woollen sweaters that need to be knitted. It is a screen printing machine, which is based on fabric properties and flower pattern characteristics.

four, relief printing mechanism and technology

process: the production of negatives is a screen, a photosensitive plate making, a development of printing paste mixing (the above process is very familiar to the screen printing workers, so omitted).

The relief printing of a href= "//www.sjfzxm.com" > woolen sweater < /a > is the use of local (finger print pattern) shrinkage prevention, the rest parts are treated by the whole process of shrinkage, and the patterned parts can not be shrunk (as the screen printing paste is added with shrink proofing agent), and the part of the picture without a picture is full of fuzz, forming a plump suede. The contrast is strong in the light, giving a visually striking stereoscopic pattern, so that the printed pattern is full of concave and convex feeling on the fabric surface, and the relief effect is not woven, nor is it the relief effect of "rotten flower" or "foaming" printing.

Here is an appropriate amount of shrink proof agent in the printing paste.

For this purpose, we introduce some anti shrinkage agents for ~J, Ep: the water soluble shrink proof resins are: SynthappretBAP, SynthappretLKF, SynthappretLKF, BAP (i~46%o bisocyanate bisulfite, British Bayer products), Buntesalt bond salt (for end group polypropene oxide), UitratexESB ulterrex (including 35% polysiloxane emulsifier, cibaka based products), Hercosete57 produced by the US, DC-109 of the United States Dow Corning (Dow-coming) company, and some water soluble and solvent based resins, which can be inquired to the marketing department.

the composition of printing paste:

SynthappretBAP (46%) 2.5%

sodium bicarbonate O.3%

low solids alginate (thickener) 1%

water 96.2%

here is the emphasis on the selection and preparation of the thickener.

Here, take alginate as an example: the commodity supplied sodium alginate is floss, powdery and bean hull, and its color is brown, yellow, greenish brown and so on.

When preparing thickening paste, we should pay attention to the following characteristics:

1. sodium alginate is easy to dissolve in water and has good gelatinization property. It can be expanded by adding warm water to obtain uniform sodium alginate paste.

However, the water temperature should not exceed 60 degrees, otherwise the viscosity will decrease.

2. bleached alginate is not as good as its color.

3. the stability of the original paste is better than that of the pH value of 5.8 to 11. When the value is less than 5.8, it will precipitate alginate and insoluble in water. The pH value is higher than 11 and it will coagulate.

4., the paste is resistant to heavy metal ions, such as calcium, aluminum, iron, zinc, copper and other two valence metal ions immediately solidified insoluble in water and precipitated.

Alcohol is also frozen.

preparation method: first put warm water into the barrel, add six sodium hypophosphite (0.5 to 1%), stir it continuously, add sodium alginate slowly into the warm water, stir well until the even grainy paste is added, add water to the total amount, and adjust the pH value to 7~8 standby.

Six sodium hypophosphite is a water softener. It can match the metal ions such as calcium and magnesium in water and paste to prevent sodium alginate from precipitating.

adding appropriate amount (O.001~0.01%) of paint to the above pulp can make the relief effect more obvious, but not overdose (excessive color printing). The relief effect is more prominent in light colored sweater.

span lang= "EN-US" lang= "Microsoft";

the functions of various auxiliaries in formula:

1. water soluble resin: shrink proof agent.

2. sodium alginate raw paste: embossed printing paste should be selected without reaction to the original paste, and it is easy to wash away in the process of finishing.

3. sodium bicarbonate (sodium bicarbonate): water soluble resin, shrink proof {~JBAP must be baked in alkaline conditions, baking soda can make shrink proof agent alkaline, and if the pH value of sweater is neutral or weak alkaline, it can reduce the consumption of baking soda.

Because sodium bicarbonate can make the stability of shrink proof slurry worse, the general stability period is about 24h.

Water soluble resin shrink resistant -~JBAP has a certain penetration ability. If the printing paste can not penetrate completely into the reverse side of the sweater, additional non-ionic permeability is needed.

the steaming temperature is 100 C ~110 C, and the time is 15rain.

The baking temperature is 110 ~ 120 C, and the time is 10min.

five, shrinkage treatment

because the finishing process is less than a href= "//www.sjfzxm.com" > wool fabric < /a > post-processing technology, it does not belong to the printing process. Here is a brief introduction.

According to the difference of shrinkage reducing agent, it can be divided into alkaline shrinkage, acid felting, neutral shrinkage, soap cashmere and first alkali, acid felting.

The main factors that affect the woolen sweater processing include: the finishing agent, the bath ratio, the temperature, the pH value, the mechanical force and the time.

when the pH value is 4~8, the shrinkage is mild, worsted is neutral, and the woolen fabric can be woollen with acid or alkaline. When the pH value is 2~3, it is most likely to shrink down, faster and more.

The temperature is high, and the shrinkage is slow.

For worsted spinning, the alkali shrinkage of worsted fabric at 40 C is 35 C ~45 C, and the acid is reduced to 50 C.

Pressure and water content can be selected according to different fabrics, so as to achieve the expected effect.

the following two methods are introduced for reference: /p >

(1) scrub down method .

technological process:

1. cashmere sweater is wetted, the water temperature is 35 degrees ~40, the bath ratio is 1:20 to 1:30, and the wetting time is 1O~20min.

The drying wool sweater is more difficult to shrink, and the lubricity of the wet sweater makes it easy to produce relative motion. The wool fibers moisten and expand, and the scales expand, which is beneficial to the interlacing of fibers.

Wet fiber has good extensibility and elasticity, which is easy to cause the directional friction effect of fibers.

2. cashmere, neutral detergent 0.5% ~ 1.5%, pH value 7 ~ 7.5, milling time 10-30min, determined according to product type.

Mechanical external force function: if there is no external force during the process, there will be no relative movement between the fibers. < a href= "//www.sjfzxm.com" > wool fiber < /a > will not interweave together, and the size of the external force should be even and proper when it is contracted.

3. cleaning, need to be cleaned 2 times, 2-3min/ times.

4. drying, the temperature is between 85 and 90 degrees, and the time is 20-25min.

(two) organic solvent fulling method

the process is as follows:

sweater cleaning (temperature 25 ~ 30 degrees centigrade), a velvet (auxiliaries for four vinyl chloride: time 5 ~ 1Omin), a drying (temperature 85 ~ 90 ~ 15-20min, time) using the down machine should be sealed.

six, notice of relief printing

1. put Mao Shanping on a sweater coat hanger made of stainless steel. The length and width of the coat hanger is slightly larger than that of the sweater, about 10%~15%. It is easy to infiltrate the printing paste when printing.

After printing, blow dry and print dry and then bake.

2. wash oil is to make sweater oil content is not higher than 0.5%, ensure sweater fully adsorbed in India shrink proof resin, when pre baked or baked, make the resin cross-linked into film intact, will not affect the relief effect.

3. the worsted and woolen pure woolen fabrics can be processed by relief printing process to obtain a special relief effect, and the fabric with thin tissue is the best.

It is not suitable for the worsted fabrics with low twist such as coarse a target= "_blank" href= "//www.sjfzxm.com/" > textile > /a and cloth and so on.

4. choice of relief printing paste, such as sodium alginate, paste should not be reacted with (Synthappret) BAP resin and washed easily in the process.

5.: key points of textile printing plate making: because of the large quantity of printing and the high printing resistance of screen printing, the photosensitive adhesive should be fully exposed (photosynthesis) to enhance the printing resistance of screen printing.

If the nylon screen is cheap and the amount of printing is large, the tension of the screen will decrease.

If the number of prints is small, the solvent type photosensitive adhesive should be selected for plate making, and the screen can be recovered after printing.

6.: selection of scrapers in printing: for different types of flowers, the types of scrapers are different from those of knife edges.

The round mouth scraper with low hardness has large knife edge area, large volume of printing, and good printing effect. It is most suitable for the pattern of full floor flowers. The blade with high hardness has small knife edge area, less pulp volume, suitable for fine lines of dots and lines, and clear edges of printed patterns.